Undercover cop has fake mustache, but gets the job done anyway. One of the better essbies from Chile, with nose of a New Zealand offering – slate and asparagus. On the palate it’s similarly traditional, but subtle. Only slightly tart, with the slight cat pee and citrus coming through. You’d be excused if you didn’t recognize this as Chileno. Well done if not perfect. First wine reviewed for 2022.