That middle-aged guy with the faux leather windbreaker and second-hand Porshe is clearly compensating for something. A meaty nose promised a possibly great pairing with beef, but things fell flat quickly. The main notes here are ripe red fruit (too ripe, in fact) and some licorice, if you’re feeling imaginative. But very little depth, a short finish, and an overall lack of character make this boring. The garish label is clearly trying to distract you from what’s in the bottle. An unfair representation of the rare Bobal grape.