Village witch turns gold into silver. I’m not sure I understand the alchemy at play that injects a citrus note into a malbec just by scraping the skins. But this is that. Lemon dominates, but a meaty hint of traditional smoke and red malby remains underneath. Odd, like one of those concept cars from the 60s. Pretty good, but not great. Put this in a white wine tasting competition and watch the fireworks as everyone’s head explodes.
