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Hey, Assholes, Stop Putting Wine in Bourbon Barrels

OK, so how many Winepisser readers enjoy a peanut butter and jelly sandwich which has been rubbed in celery salt and truffle oil? Not many I expect.

What about a fine filet mignon that has been cooked to perfection and then soaked in the leftover milk from a bowl of Count Chockula cereal?

Yeah, well how about a nice cabernet blend shoved into barrels that some shithead used to make cheap bourbon in?

I didn’t think so. And yet that’s what some assholes want us to believe, that aging wine in bourbon barrels is going to improve the wine. Of course the ultimate effect is the exact opposite, and it results in wine that tastes like it’s been served in a glass that was left overnight from someone’s bachelor party and never washed, and probably had some cigarette butts in it to boot.

I’ve tried a few of these gimmicky garbage blends recently, and the effect is always the same: a not bad wine marred significantly by an overpotent nose that smells like a gay bar urinal cake and an aftertaste that’s about the same. The Cooper and Thief blend I wrote about here was the least offensive, but not much so.

Bourbon is made from corn grain and melted confederate flags, so mixing wine with it will naturally foul up the thing. It’s a baffling choice, but I can see the marketing appeal. It sounds cool. But if you think about it for a few seconds — wine mixed with bourbon? — you can quickly sense how it will end. Not good.

So I’m unlikely to stop marketing assholes from mixing wine with anything they can get their hands on just to sell bottles, but I do appeal to whatever souls may be left in the winemakers who are forced to make this stuff. Stop it, already. Or I swear to God, I will invite you over and serve you a gorgeous salmon fillet that, just as I put it on your plate, I rub with some week-old dirty laundry.

 

Hugel Pinot Blanc Gets 5 Stars, to the Surprise of No One

I’m an unabashed fanboy of anything coming out of the producers Hugel et Fils, from the Alsace region of France. My first tasting was at an exclusive Hugel-only event in Orlando many years ago, pairing some of their fantastic Gewurztraminer with remarkable Hudson Valley foie gras. Since then, the distinctive school bus yellow label triggers an instinctive happy-feelz in my heart whenever I see it, and drinking their wines just pushes me over the moon. Heck, this blog launched with its very first post about Hugel!

So it’s probably no surprise that my opinion of the Hugel Alsace Cuvée les Amours Pinot Blanc (2014) is that it’s just amazing, and worth a solid five stars. Slight lemon fizz but still dry enough to never be called candyish, with a slight tart bite that brings it above the usual pinot blanc fare. A dash of minerals knocks it home. This drinks just fine by itself, but pair it with pork, fish, liver or even spicy tacos, and it will make your tastebuds dance. There’s literally nothing that can go wrong here.

Visit the Hugel page here, and prepare to be amazed!

Grenache Sharks Be Damned, Pittacum La Prohibición 2012 Gets Five Stars

This wine should get extra points just for the outlandish winemaker’s notes on Vivino. I’m not sure if they translated the original text using a ventriloquist dummy with its mouth filled with socks, or if they just drank too much of the stuff beforehand, but here’s what they had written. Strap in:

It is Grenache sharks centenarians located on soils with authentic vocation wine, grown on steep slopes are the source of the ban. Vines formed in glass by tradition and planted in high density that require manual intervention. Vineyards in which each strain is an individual and where the grower surgeon knowledge can shorten or lengthen your life. Respect for the land and soil is crucial and these vineyards are not plowed or contaminated with pesticides. We let the native flora colonize spontaneously soils and regulate by reaping manuals.Finally seek that magical moment, “seasoning” the optimum moment of maturation, displaying the attributes of the vintage and the unfathomable secrets of the soil.

Grenache sharks! Grower surgeons that can shorten your life! This reads like a low budget sci-fi flick.

Don’t let the spontaneously-colonizing flora scare you off, though, Pittacum La Prohibición Garnacha Tintorera 2012 is an absolutely fantastic wine, hailing from Castilla y Leon in Spain. This wine is lacking in nose but makes up for it with incredible balance and fruit. There’s some plum in here along with light oak and currant and its lit up with lovely tannins and moderate acid. At 14.5% alcohol this is one to be drunk slowly, unless the grenache sharks are after you.

Winemaker’s site is here, and you can buy it here.

 

German Riesling Wins First 2017 Five-Star Review

It’s been a drab year so far, and we are already in March without much great wine to talk about. Your Winepisser has tasted a slew of whites lately (middling sauvignon blancs, a few lackluster pinot grigios, and a ton of crappy chardonnay) as well as a moderate sampling of reds (dull malbecs, a few surprisingly bad California blends) and nothing has stood out. Well, except for the Apothic White, which was so shockingly bad we compared it to what you might get if you juiced those artificial banana cakes they sell at all-night gas stations.

But where were the great wines? It’s March, for heaven’s sake!

Well, meet Joh. Jos. Prüm’s 2012 Graacher Hehimmelreich Spätlese, Winepisser’s first 5-star winner for 2017. This Mosel Riesling should surprise no one since it keeps garnering high ratings from the usual wine reviewers, but reading a review is one thing, and drinking it is something altogether different.

This reez reminds us why Mosel is Eden for the breed, the place where seemingly nothing can go wrong for Riesling, as the glass is a bounty of light but uninhibited flavors: tea, apricot, pear and a finish of ever-so-slight green apple. It’s sweet, but only slightly so, and there’s no fizz here so don’t worry. Lovers of arid dry wine won’t like it, but everyone else will.

I had limited tasting notes for this, and it was drunk un-paired, but it would go well with any of the typical dishes that sit well next to a Mosel Riesling, including pork, fish and even spicy tacos.

Interested in more information? It will be hard to come buy, as the JJ Prüm website is a Spartan little thing, but with some sniffing you should find it at a Total Wine or orderable through your local grape-shiller.

Winepisser Best Wine of 2016: Narbona Tannat Roble 2010

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The rising star in New World wines is Uruguay, and this year’s prestigious Winepisser Best Wine award goes to a fantastic Tannat out of Carmelo, produced by winery Narbona.

As our original February 2016 review pointed out, this is a meaty wine, in all the senses of the word. “Aged in barrels of beef” was my short-form commentary, and I meant it. This wine is not best suited for drinking alone, as it tastes “paired” out of the bottle, as if you had just shoved a juicy steak in your mouth and then sipped; but without a real plate sitting next to it, this wine is robbed of its full experience. Paired with steak, osso buco, lasagna or even a well-seasoned salmon, the Narbona brings an amazing “third tongue” flavor to the meal, like a good pairing must.

IMAG3735As I do with most of the 5-star ranking wines, I made sure to revisit this at a later time to confirm. The original review was in February, and then in June or so I ordered a case to share with friends and re-test. It stood up to more pairings and the case disappeared quickly. Mind you, living part time in Peru makes it easier for me to get this, and you may not be so lucky, but importing some is worth it. It’s not particularly pricey, and is well within the reach of even casual wine drinkers.

Last year saw the first Winepisser Best Wine award winner, and since the website was launched in November, it was based on a decidedly smaller sample size. The 2015 award when to Apothic Red, which surprised everyone since it’s a mainstay on “casual dining” restaurants like Carrabbas, and that’s usually a scary thing. (See Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling.) Apothic, one commentator noted, “is made in a lab,” and yet we found it strangely addictive.

So it took quite a lot more for Narbona to win, since it was up against an entire year of competitors (over 120 in all), including a roundup from the presumably prestigious Disney Food and Wine Festival 2016 (which proved to be a lackluster year for wine at Epcot.) At year’s end there were eight 5-star finalists, from all over the world and bearing a wide variety of colors and tastes:

Narbona Winery, Carmelo Uruguay

Narbona Winery, Carmelo Uruguay

It’s unusual that not a single New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc made the list, since my Vivino app tells me it was my most-swigged type of wine for 2016, and the “enzee essbees” certainly did rank consistently high.  But none of them broke the 4.5 star limit, even if two German Rieslings made the cut. Another Urugayan tannat, the 2006 Viñedo de los Vientos Angel’s Cuvee Ripasso de Tannat, ranked 4 stars in March, and I recently revisited that wine and confirmed the rating. While spectacular, it just didn’t reach the Narbona greatness.

But throughout the year, I knew everything was competing against the Narbona. It was constantly in the background as the high water mark that the other wines were being rated against. It’s not just Winepisser that’s impressed, either, other reviewers are coming to discover Narbona.  The vineyard has 15 hectares dedicated solely to Tannat, which is proving a popular grape in Uruguay. they also operate a lodge and restaurant, which is getting fantastic reviews from travelers all over the world. (Yours truly is planning a trip soon.)

So congratulations to winemaker Maria Valeria Chiola and the talented grape-artisans at Narbona for winning the 2016 Winepisser Best Wine award!

You can learn more and visit the Narbona website here, or visit the official Narbona Facebook page here.

Domaine des Sénéchaux CDP 2012 Nails Cinq étoiles

As I’ll be writing shortly, for whatever reason 2016 has been the year of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at Winepisser. Despite this, no NZ SB has made our five-star list, and you’d think one was due. This trend remains true as we announce our latest five-star winner, the scrumptious Domaine des Sénéchaux Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2012 red from the Rhone region of our beloved sister in freedom, France. A gooey French red is about as far from a nautical Antipodal white as you can get.

imag5341sBut hot damn, this one’s amazing. I have always enjoyed CDP, for its easy drinking, luscious fruit and always pleasant perfume. But CDP is also a mixed bag, with different labels and bottles often tasting differently from one another, it’s is not uncommon to find an occasional bland stinker. When ordering a red I tend to lean towards a cheap-o Beaujolais Villages, a latin Malbec or even one of those whackjob lab-made red blends coming out of California. Once in a while, however, I remember to grab a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and immediately kick myself for not doing so more often.

This one, from the J. M. Cazes family, is just a stunner. It’s not at all heavy, but nevertheless paired well with a bold steak dish. Trying it again, we paired it with a plate designed to make pairing impossible — lamb chops fried in trufflo oil and then smothered in truffle butter, and served with simple boiled potatoes and seared asparagus — and I’ll be goddamned, the wine held up and pruduced the elusive “third tongue” flavors that always indicate a winning pairing.

Even after that, it remained a favorite during dessert (one time chocolate cake, another time banana cream pie!) and drank equally well by itself.

In keeping with Winepisser history lessons, let me educate you. Few know that the term “Châteauneuf-du-Pape” means, in French, “the Pope’s black prostitute.” The origin of the wine is mysterious, but we do know that randy Pope Illicit XII drank the stuff while brotheling across much of Europe, often sipping the wine from the bellybuttons of what he called “my horde of negress jaspacians,” the latter word meaning nothing at all, but in keeping with the fact that Pope Illicit XII rarely spoke anything sensible, seeing as how he was always drinking wine from black slaves’ bellybuttons. He was a wretched man, for sure, and is probably rotting next to Himmler and Pol Pot in the Pit. But he did spread the gospel of this fantastic wine, even more than he spread the papal clap.

Regardless of its dubious pedigree, the Domaine des Sénéchaux CDP is a fantastic example of the breed. The winery says this blend is “unfiltered and composed of 64% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre and 2% Vaccarèse-Cinsault,” which is stunning to me, since the grenache is now the dominant flavor here. Its full of light fruit, without becoming overly jammy, and perfectly balanced acid and tannin that makes for a delightful glass.  What jamminess there is, it’s not a grape jam flavor seeking a peanut butter partner, it’s delicate and less ostentatious, but nevertheless unafraid to declare it’s fruit genetics.

Or list of five-starrers in competition for the 2016 Winepisser Best Wine grows even more international, as this fantastic CDP now competes with an Uruguayan tannat, two German Rieslings, a Torrontes from Argentina, a Hungarian Tokaji, and a whackjob, lab-made red bend from California. What a mix!

Learn more about the wine directly from the Domaine des Sénéchaux website here.

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Revisiting an Ica Chenin Blanc Awards it a Full Five Stars

1449001425_sHere’s a first: a wine tasted previously that gets revisited and upgraded to a full five stars. If that’s not particularly odd, consider this: it’s from Ica Peru, where wine is best served for use in Molotov cocktails or burning someone in effigy.

Last year I pondered the 2014 Viña Vieja Chenin Blanc from Agrícola Viña Vieja Viña Santa Isabel SAC in Ica and wondered how, exactly, they had managed it. I assured myself it must be someone else’s wine, rebottled and then maybe labeled in Peru, but it couldn’t’ actually have been grown there. Peru is the land where Pisco tastes like Heaven, but wine tastes like Hell. It’s a shitstorm for wine lovers. And yet… Viña Vieja Chenin Blanc.

Eventually you know you’ve hit a good wine when you find yourself going back to it, over and over. Such was last year’s Winepisser Best Wine winner, Apothic Red, which might not have gotten a second look except for the fact that I found it so damn addictive. This year, it’s Viña Vieja, which I’ve bought by the case and keep drinking like mad. Not oversweet, but while some may brand it “candy-ish,” it’s candy made a master, allowing flavor to shine over sugar. Fresh peach — not the syrupy shit you buy in a can — rises in the glass, and a slight tart bang compliments the experience.

And holy crap, it pairs with anything. I’ve had this with Peruvian chaufa, mind-bendingly strong ceviche, full-on surf and turf, delicate baked swai, even traditional spaghetti and meatballs, and it just doesn’t stop. Furthermore, everyone loves it; crack a bottle and you’re going to watch it disappear fast, as it seems to appeal to all palates simultaneously.

I could write a snarky piece estimating the origin of this thing, but for now it’s a bloody mystery. When you live in Peru like I do, you quickly ascertain that good Peruvian wine is treasure to be sought, because it’s so rare. This Viña Vieja Chenin Blanc just doesn’t make sense; it’s that good, and it’s astoundingly cheap (in Peru, anyway.)

At some point I knew I had to re-rate this since last year’s review. Drinking the 2015 vintage, I am happy to upgrade it to five stars. Now it sits in competition against a Uruguayan tannat, two German Rieslings, a Torrontes from Argentina, a Hungarian Tokaji, and a red bend from California. The year is ending fast, so it will be interesting to see who wins the 2016 Winepisser Best Wine.

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Winepisser Hits the 2016 Epcot Food & Wine Festival at Walt Disney World

Through some grace of Fortune, I found myself traveling to Orlando and stuck in a hotel over the weekend, right during Walt Disney World’s 2016 Food and Wine Festival at Epcot. Oh, yeah.

I hit the thing mad early, even before it opened, and was immediately weakened by the oppressive heat. The lines were insanely long, the sun was baking, and I was stuck without proper Disney park attire, not having come into town for the purposes of walking around in the heat all day. But just on the other side of Futureworld lay my second favorite thing in life, the WDW Food and Wine Fest, so I would have gone even if I was wearing a parka that had been lit on fire.

epcotfaw2016-9If you’re not familiar, the F&W festival features kiosks spread out across the World Showcase of Epcot, each featuring two or three small taster plates and associated wines or beers, with each kiosk representing a different nation or region. Unless you’re obese and have no liver, you can’t eat and drink everything there in one day, so you have to pace yourself and select per your tastes. I made it only 2/3 of the way through before I could take no more, and am now trying to arrange my schedule to come back again before it ends in November, so I can finish sampling the regions I missed.

(FYI, you can few the menus and offerings here, but note that when I went, this was not completely accurate, and a few kiosks had less actual offerings than what is listed on that site. When I went, there was no plum wine offering at China, for example.)

What I did taste was nearly entirely spectacular, at least as far as the food went; the wine was hit-and-miss, unfortunately. I’ve been to the F&W festival many times (at least seven or eight), so I know what to expect. The food will be amazing, and the wine selection will be top notch. I don’t always agree with their pairing suggestions, and the wines are mostly commercial stuff — Disney isn’t opening up the cellars of fine collections here — but nowhere else can you get this range of plates and wines from all around the world in a single setting. As we will see, however, this year’s wine offerings were not up to par with previous years.

The World Showcase is designed as a circular path around the big central lake, so I entered the area and turned left, working the park clockwise. Not sure why I do that, perhaps it’s usually because I head for the Mexico pavillion’s amazing San Angel Inn restaurant when I’m not there for the festival. In any event, this put me in front of the Florida food kiosk first, which had nothing of interest (mac and cheese? really?) so I kept walking.

This meant my first kiosk of interest was New Zealand kiosk. I knew what I could expect: mad Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs, my latest obsession! Right I was, and the menu was offering a 2015 Mohua SB, as well as a Kim Crawford pinot gris and Nobilo Icon pinot noir. I selected the venison and kumara dumpling plate, so I paired it with the Mohua. This would prove the best dish of the day, as well as the best pairing.

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Mohua Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – 2015

The usual grassy, minerally and utterly astounding flavors that make New Zealand the undisputed paradise for sauvignon blanc are all here, in abundance. Not much nose, so all the flavors are in the glass. Paired with seared venison for a perfect experience.

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Moving on, the next kiosk of interest was New Zealand’s hulking neighbor, Australia. In previous years, New Zealand kiosk would feature a lamb chop plate, but this year the Aussies had one, garnished with mint pesto and “potato crunchies,” the latter basically being potato chip crumbs. The plate was fairly terrible, as the chop was all fat, and I couldn’t even cut it with the plastic knife that Disney provides. Flavor was okay, but I think they forgot to add the mint to the pesto. I paired this with a shiraz, per the chef’s suggestion, and this was probably not a smart pairing (the dry riesling offering from Chateau Tanunda would have worked better, in retrospect.)

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Yongarra Estate Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz – 2013

An okay shiraz but lacking in depth and finish. Barely stood up to an otherwise bland and lightly garlicked lamb chop, and overall forgettable. Still, my suspicions are that with the right dish, this might come alive, so I’m rating it higher than I otherwise might.

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Then it was onto the Mexico kiosk, which offered tacos de camaron and a barbacoa enchilada con mole. But… no wine. As someone who’s traveled to Mexico, I can attest that, yes, they have wine and it’s pretty damn good. The lack of a wine offering, and a fear that I’d fill up on comida mexicana before I got very far on my world tour led me to skip the kiosk, thinking I’d come back later. That never happened, and thus the need to return soon.

Next up was China, which also lacked a wine pairing. Here I skipped the main plate offerings (roasted duck in steamed bun, and sichuan spicy chicken) because I again didn’t want to fill up, but I did grab the pot stickers because… pot stickers! Again, frustrating that there was no Chinese wine offering here, as China is a developing producer and if you are going to find a Chinese wine anywhere, it should be at the Epcot festival… right?

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I shuffled past the South Korea kiosk, which offered Korean style BBQ beef and kimchi and roasted pork lettuce wrap, and now I regret it. I was getting pissed that the two previous kiosks didn’t have wine offerings, and when I saw the Korean offering was a “raspberry wine” I suddenly felt I had been transported to one of those horrid Pennsylvania “local wineries” where they may offer an actual grape-based bottle, but you’re more likely to them fermenting whatever fruit they could buy at the local Ingles. Seriously, Earth, just stop it with the raspberry wine already. We’re trying to have a civilization here.

Things were starting to look bad, but then I happily landed at the Africa kiosk — yes, Disney treats “Africa” as a country, not a continent — and I figured I’d find some exotic wine or, at least, a healthy offering from those racisty white people at the southern tip. Sure enough, there were three fine offerings: an Indaba chenin blanc, Simonsig pinotage and Western Cape sweet shiraz. I ordered the berbere-style sirloin tips with onion, tomato, jalapeno and pap, and paired it with the pinotage. The food was excellent… the wine, not so much.

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Simonsig Stellonbosch Pinotage – South Africa – 2014

Unforgettable and bland, like a Jill Stein speech written by a prototype machine learning program. Literally forgettable, a few minutes in and I had thought I forgot to order a wine, the flavor disappeared that fast.

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The memories of that first New Zealand SB still kept my spirits up, hoping I’d find some great and memorable wines to make up for the horrid South African offering and the kiosks that skipped wine altogether, and I came upon the German kiosk. My mother had been adopted by Germans, and cooked a lot of German-influenced food when I was a kid, and most of it was not particularly good, so I don’t have a love for the Deutsch Küche, and the offering was nearly offensive in its stereotyping: bratwurst and strudel, but the wine offerings were kick-ass. Before me were a J&H Selbach Bernkasteler Kurfürstlay Riesling Kabinett, a Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese and a J&H Selbach Bernkasteler Kurfürstlay Riesling. I should have ordered all three, but I still anticipated a lot more kiosking to do, and didn’t want to be totally hammered, even if the glasses are tiny. I opted for the Spätlese, and was happily knocked off my feet.

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese – Germany – 2013

Viscous and sweet, but not syrupy, and surprisingly refreshing and crisp despite the sugar. Don’t serve this as a dessert wine, as you’d be missing the point; instead, pair this with a main plate for your friends who don’t like dry wine. Melon and spice are prominent here. Highly recommended.

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The German kiosk was located, not surprisingly, outside the German pavilion, which features a great in-park wine store called the Weinkeller, so I temporarily drifted off my path and decided to create a wine flight of the offerings inside. The Weinkeller offers two wine flights of three 2-oz. samples, one for red and one for white, and I had tried the white previously (here, here and here), and wasn’t up for reds, so I decided to make my own. The wine pourer indicated that they don’t offer custom flights, so I’d have to buy three full 6-oz, glasses; pushing 2/3 caution to the wind, I decided to try two glasses, in the hope that I wouldn’t be so drunk afterwards that I’d be dragged from the park by an angry Chip and Dale.

PJ Valckenberg Rhieinhassen “Madonna” Liebfraumilch Qualitatswein – Germany – 2009

Very smooth, delicate and never oversweet, this will be a hit with your uppity wine pitucos as well as the newbies who prefer sweeter wines. Should pair nicely with fish, or light meats.

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PJ Valckenberg Gewurztraminer – Germany – 2012

Medium sweet, and surprisingly subdued for a gwerz, but delicious nonetheless. Have fun, serve this blind to your wine snob pals and see if anyone notices it’s a Gewurztraminer.

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At this point I was no longer walking straight, and I swear I started seeing hallucinations of creatures that looked like giant, man-sized mice, women dressed as cartoon princesses, and a smartassed blue genie. I needed some food more lumping waffles for my dumptruck, so I headed over to the Poland kiosk, and ordered the keilbasa and pierogi plate. I’m not a fan of pierogis, but these were rather nice, and the kielbasa was out of this world. Paired with this was a Hungarian wine which proved unmemorable.

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Donausonne Blaufränkisch – Hungary – 2012

Tepid, watery and a little too sweet, this is a disappointing mess. Almost seems like the kids drank half a bottle, then poured water back in so mom wouldn’t notice.

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Next I headed to the Italian dessert kiosk — a permanent stand, not one set up for the festival — and grabbed my favorite Epcot dessert: chocolate covered cannoli. (Hint to Disney cast members running the desert kiosk: some of us know enough Italian to know when you’re talking about us. Not cool.)

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At this point I was running out of steam, with little less than a half of the festival to go. I knew I wasn’t going to make it, and would have to come back. So far the experience was a mixed bag, and the wine wasn’t universally awesome as in previous years. But I also know that some of this was bad luck, as I was probably selecting the wrong wine in some cases. At least I hope so.

The next kiosk was Italy, and I liek Italian wines, but am not fanatical about them. I opted to keep walking since I knew I only had about one more glass to go before I was unconscious and drooling like a stooge, and I didn’t want to waste it on something I wasn’t going to love. I headed to the Morocco kiosk, and opted for a Moroccan white. This was not a wise decision.

Celliers de Meknes – Les Trois Domaines Guerrouane Blanc – Morocco – 2014

If you like your wine to taste like the excess water from a can of supermarket olives, then this is the wine for you. If, on the other hand, you exist in the civilized world, you’ll only use this wine to poison your neighbor’s noisy parrot. I swear I tasted a hint of gasoline, making me think the bottle had been intended for use as a Molotov cocktail, but got re-purposed for Disney when the street revolt was cancelled.

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That was a disappointing finish. At this point the heat and too much alcohol was having its way with me, and it was time to rest. I shopped a bit in the Japan store, grabbing lots of Studio Ghibli merch for the fam, but knew I didn’t have any steam left in the underboiler to try any more dishes or wines. I’d have to come back. Brokenhearted, I walked past the kiosks for Brazil, Patagonia, Ireland, Islands of the Caribbean, and others.

Overall, though, it was an underwhelming wine day. The wines were mostly uninspiring, even the more exotic ones, and a typical trip to Total Wine offers more exciting options. The food was amazing, yes, but come on … they actually serve the swill of the damned, that goddamned awful sluice-gate overspill Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling! I mean, sweet Jesus on a pogo stick, what deal with which demons did those Washingtonian bastards make to have their garbage spread across the entirety of the United States? I swear to all that’s holy, the plague in The Last Ship was brought on by Ste. Michelle Riesling, since it’s omipresence makes it the perfect carrier for a liquid-born terrorist virus.

I do intend on returning, if my schedule allows, but I’m not enthused. From a wine standpoint, the 2016 festival is — so far– shaping up to be a letdown.

 

The Tao of DAOU’s Pessimist Red Blend 2014

pessimistNever having been much on red blends, if years ago you had told me last year’s Winepisser Best Wine award would have gone to a blend (Apothic Red won), I would have scoffed. Now we see another Cally blend hitting the 5-star mark here at Winepisser, with DOAU Vineyard’s Pessimist Red Blend 2014.

DAOU — which must be typed in all caps since you can only shout it, not speak it — claims the Pessimist is a blend of syrah, petite sirah, zinfandel and tannat, but they left out the hints of love, enlightenment and orgiastic pleasure. This glass has near-zero tannin, a velvety layer of blackberry with hints of smoke and vanilla. Don’t let that lack of tannin freak you out, it works here, even if it might limit food pairings. The tannat brings a meatiness to the glass, but the syrah stands out as the real star. Collectively, these grapes are all working hard to achieve their best performance, like a dance troupe on Broadway. Bravo, guys.

I ordered this from a proper sommellier in a high end Miami restaurant, who recommended it. I tipped the waiter the value of my house afterwards, in thanks. Later I spoke with a wine store expert who said, “you know that’s made in a lab, right?” I said, curtly, “I don’t give a flying fuck. I would bathe in the stuff if they sent me enough cases. Shut up, you.” Then I robbed the wine store to pay for the waiter’s tip. Blame the Pessimist in me.

I will admit that this year’s 5-star wines are a mixed bunch, and there’s no guarantee Pessimist — or any other red blend — is going to win the 2016 award. Take a look at the contenders thus far:

(A few other 5-starrers are coming up, but haven’t been published yet. We may actually be taking a second look at that weirdo Vina Vieja from Peru, of all places. And another Uruguayan Tannat is coming up fast from behind.)

I really need to get more of this to test it under more real-world conditions and food pairings, but it’s rare stuff down here in South America, and I will have to smuggle a few bottles in my luggage when returning from my next US trip.

For more on Pessimist, visit the official site here.

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Hungary’s Heaven: Chateau Megyer Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 

IMAG4897sHeaven only serves Ch. Megyer Tokaji Aszú to its best clientele, and this 5 puttonyo masterpiece is reserved for the archangels.

In a recent interview with God, I asked Him why his firmament elected to serve Megyer, and he immediately slapped me in the face. God, apparently, has no patience for stupidity. “Have you tasted it? If you have tasted it, and you still have to ask the question, I will send you to Hell right now, mister!” While He was screaming, an earthquake killed 60 people in Chile.

I admitted I was just displaying faux journalistic curiosity, and that of course I agreed with Him. And not only for fear of damnation, but for a real love of Hungary’s famed Tokaji Aszú sweet wines. This 2002 5 puttonyo offering represents one of the best of the best, with a sweet plum with a spicy afterbite that lets you know this is no cheap ice wine or mere dessert drink. This is a sweet pleasure for the adults, and — of course — angels.

God was still fuming at my insincerity, so I moved on to talk about Heaven’s carta de vino with one of His lieutenants, St. Michael. We looked over the wine list, and found the usual suspects — Alsatian Gewurztraminer, Uruguayan Tannat, German Riesling, French Bordeaux. I was, if anything, a bit disappointed by Heaven’s sommellier, who apparently hadn’t been thinking too far out of the box. But there in bold print was the Megyer Tokaji Aszú, and I could see the type on the wine list was a bit worn in that area, as everyone who came to Heaven eventually pointed to it when ordering.

This wine is an interesting creation by any measure. It has sugar, and cannot be mistaken for anything but a sweet wine, but it’s sweetness is never sugary nor cloying. The color is almost that of a dark amber beer, and it sticks lightly to the glass, but is never syrupy. The hint — and I mean tiniest hint — of bitter bite in the back end really shakes it up, and makes it a fantastic pairing with salad, amuse bouche or even light appetizer. This is not a dessert wine — it’s better before the final dish than after.

The extra puttonyos — which St. Michael explained was the Hungarian word for “freshly mashed innocence,” something Megyer apparently squeezes into each bottle — do nothing but raise the wine to celestial levels. The 2 puttonyo offerings are less balanced, with less character and more in line with typical dessert wine. Add a few more puttonyos and let it age, and you are pouring pure miracles.

An interesting aside: rumor in Heaven has it that his Father was furious when Jesus turned water into Cabernet, and not Tokaji Aszú. “How could you be that daft?” God is reported to have shouted, destroying all of Turkey in the process.

Five stars, without hesitation.

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